Freestyle Machine Embroidery by Carol Shinn
By Carol Shinn
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Extra info for Freestyle Machine Embroidery
Remember to stitch up to the edges of each shape, adding extra stitches if necessary. You can also rip out the thread in some areas to remove shapes or colors that aren’t working. It’s also possible to repaint an area, as long as the paint is well thinned and the painted area is stitched. When you’re finished stitching, clip the top threads. Turn the piece over and give the bottom threads a gentle tug to pull the ends of the top threads to the underside, then clip the bottom threads. Don’t worry if a thread pops out on the front.
Crowding the chair into the top of the picture plane put it into a more dynamic location and gave me space to develop a more dramatic staging. I decided what had “passed” was the summer season, when people play or relax in the sand. To add to the feeling of summer and passing time, I chose to add the image of a typical summer cloud from my photo file. I chose to use it as a transparency to suggest that both the chair and the cloud were passing memories. The rest of this chapter follows my process for making an embroidery.
Dharma’s product is easy to use, inexpensive, and has given me consistent, good results. Step 1. —and scan it into your computer. I use Adobe Photoshop to make alterations and to resize my photographs. In addition to enlarging my images, I typically make them a little taller in relation to their width to compensate for the distortion that will result from stitching. I also lighten the image and increase the contrast so that it will be easier to see the details when I begin to stitch. If you want the final image to have the same left-right orientation as the original, you will need to reverse the image in your computer (in Photoshop, go to Image/ Rotate Canvas/Flip Canvas Horizontal).